I feel like I released the Women’s Hero Vest so quickly after I released my Scout pattern that I haven’t had enough time to give Scout all of it’s glory – so here’s a post dedicated to Scout!
I sewed this Scout set for Lil during the testing phase of the pattern. She chose the skirt fabric and I found some other fabrics in my stash that went with it to make the sweatshirt from. The sweatshirt fabric is a french terry knit I’ve had in my stash for years so I was happy to finally put it to use! I wanted to do something to jazz up the front of the sweatshirt but wasn’t keen on applique. Instead, I dug out my paints and freezer paper and made myself a big love-heart stencil. I don’t have a big range of fabric paints (okay, I only have black) so I mixed silver paint (nothing special, just kids acrylic craft paint) with some fabric fixative. If you are not familiar with fabric fixative, it is a runny liquid that you mix with regular paints to make them washable when painted on fabric. After the paint has dried, you need to heat-set it with a hot iron for about 5 minutes and then you are supposed to be able to wash it without running or washing away. (Here is a link for more information, I bought mine from Spotlight years ago.)
I’ve used this fixative a few times and it has worked really well in the past. I was a bit apprehensive about mixing it with metallic paints and I had to paint about 10 coats onto the fabric before it finally stood out and didn’t seep into the fabric and disappear. Because the paint is so thick, the painted heart area of the sweatshirt is pretty stiff and creases easily but it has been washed quite a few times – and even dried in the dryer a couple of times and is still nice and crisp!
I really like this sweatshirt and it looks great with a pair of jeans too.
These Scout skirts are a tried and tested favourite in our house. I love them because they are super fast and easy to make (the longest step is hemming that long circular hem, but you could always leave it un-hemmed if you couldn’t be bothered) the whole skirt is finished in about 30 minutes. I also love them because knit fabric = no ironing! So they can speed through the wash and back into the wardrobe without being stuck in the ironing basket for weeks on end! Lil loves them because of the comfort factor, fun fabric choices and of course…awesome twirlability!!!
The Scout skirt is a great project to sink your teeth into if you are just starting out sewing knit fabrics and feeling a little fearful. Here is a gorgeous version of the skirt one of my pattern testers, Gail made for her daughter. I need to get me some of that fabric – so pretty!
And that ends my little tribute to Scout!
SUPPLIES: Make It Perfect, Scout pattern // {Sweatshirt} Lilac french terry knit // black ribbing // {Skirt} Lillestoff knit Butterfly Woman in Lilac // black jersey knit.
I’m back with another version of the Women’s Hero Vest. This is the one that I made for the Concealed Zipper Tutorial and it is the first one I have shared on the blog that is made using solid fabric.
For the exterior of this vest I have used a mid-blue french terry knit. I’m terrible at remembering where I sourced knit fabrics from (unless they have a selvedge with printed information on them!) so I can’t tell you where I bought this one from. I can tell you that it is one of my favourite french terry knits though. Really good amount of stretch and recovery, it holds it’s shape and doesn’t pill after many washes (I’ve also made myself a pair of trackies from this fabric so it has been put to the test! And I promise not to wear the trackies and vest at the same time…) The knit is also nice and thick which makes this Women’s Hero Vest even warmer. I used a grey polar fleece for the lining and a European charcoal ribbing for the waistband and all of the binding.
The fabrics combined together make a really comfortable and warm vest. I love making my kid’s Hero Vests with knit fabrics because they feel so much cosier, and this one really is super soft and cosy to wear.
If you want to check out how the concealed zipper looks and works in more details, then make sure you take a good look at the inside of the vest in these photos. It is a really neat and professional finish and means that you can wear your vest unzipped without seeing any exposed seams. I used a metal zipper on this vest too and once again, the weight of the metal really does help the front of the vest sit flatter than a plastic zipper.
Not sure what else to say about this one that hasn’t been said before! Has anyone made a Women’s Hero Vest yet? If you have, pop into our Facebook Sharing Group and share a picture or feel free to email me one yourself!
A few weeks ago over on the Make It Perfect Sharing Facebook Group there was a bit of discussion about how to make the Hero Vest (kids & women’s) with a completely concealed zipper from the inside of the vest. The way the pattern is written now, the zipper is sewn onto the vest as one of the very last steps, and from the inside of the vest you end up seeing the exposed edge of the zipper tape. While this method is completely fine (hundreds of kid’s Hero Vests have been constructed this way with no complaints!) I knew it would be a much cleaner finish if I could work out a way to conceal the zipper, especially for the Women’s Hero Vest where you might want to wear the zipper partially or fully opened from time to time.
A few group members shared suggestions and I tried out a few ideas of my own, but nothing was hitting the spot. Then one of our lovely group members emailed me and shared her method (which she learned from constructing another jacket) for concealing the zipper, I tried it out and it was awesome! I chose not to include instructions for this method in the pattern because it is a little tricky to get your head around and I felt like it really needed a bit of extra hand-holding and lots of accompanying photographs to help you get the correct finish. But trust me, after you’ve done it once it won’t seem tricky at all and you will be speeding through it in no time! So thankyou Helen, and may there be many more concealed zippers in your Hero Vest sewing!Before following this tutorial, begin making your vest following Steps 1 & 2 in the Hero Vest pattern. You will also need to follow Step 3, d & e to sandwich the hood between the exterior and lining vests – but don’t worry about attaching the waistband at this point.
To conceal your zipper, you will need to attach the waistband to your vest in a different way than the pattern instructs.
Take your vest and lay it flat on the floor with right side facing up. As you can see from the following photograph, the exterior and lining vests are joined together here at the neckline, with the finished hood sandwiched between them. For your reference, my exterior fabric is the blue (a french terry knit), lining is the grey (looks more brown in these photos – polar fleece) and ribbing is charcoal.
Take your waistband ribbing piece and, with right side of waistband facing right side of vest, pin waistband to the bottom edge of the exterior vest. You will need to stretch the waistband evenly to fit along the bottom edge of the vest. Sew waistband to the vest along pinned edge using a 1/2″ seam allowance. I have chosen to use a stretch tricot stitch here to make sure that none of my stitches pop when the waistband is stretched in the future. Here is a close-up shot of the waistband attached to the bottom edge of the exterior vest.Take the other long side of your waistband ribbing piece and, with right side of waistband facing right side of vest, pin waistband to the bottom edge of the lining vest. Once again, you will need to stretch the waistband evenly to fit along the bottom edge of the lining vest. Sew waistband to the vest along pinned edge using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Again, I used a stretch tricot stitch.
Now your exterior and lining vests will be joined at the top (neckline with hood sandwiched between) and the bottom (joined to waistband), making a big loop. Turn your vest right sides out and this is what it looks like from the lining side:This is what it looks like from the exterior:And this is what the front edge of the vest looks like – the waistband is folded in half, making the bottom edge of the vest.Turn your vest inside out again, with wrong side of lining, waistband and exterior facing out.Keeping the vest inside out, You will need to re-create the fold in the bottom edge of the vest as shown below. The waistband is folded in half, with wrong sides together and the raw edge of the bottom of the lining vest needs to line up with the raw edge of the bottom of the exterior vest.So the vest is still inside out, but the wasitband has been folded in half (length-ways) and tucked in between the lining and exterior vests. Make sure that the seam lines on the exterior and lining vests match up and pin into place along the bottom edge of the vest.Before you insert the zipper, you need to baste the bottom edge of the exterior and lining vests together to make things easier as you move onto the next steps. Starting at one side seam (not the front edge of the vest) sew the bottom edge of the vests together using a long, wide zig-zag stitch. It is important that this stitching isn’t seen from the right side of the vest, so keep the zig-zag within the seam allowance (between the stitching line and raw edge shown below).This is the setting I used for my zig-zag stitch:You can see in the photo below the row of zig-zag stitch sewn only from one side seam to the other (i.e. only along the back panel of the vest.)Here is a close-up of the zig-zag stitch sitting within the seam allowance:Now that the waistband is attached, it is time to insert the zipper.
Turn your vest right-way out again – this is a good time to check that you can’t see any of your zig-zag stitching on the back panel of the vest. I forgot to take a photo of this part, but open your open-ended zipper part way and fold the extra tape at the top of the zipper down and away from the zipper teeth to the back of the zipper. Baste into place.
Place your zipper on top of your vest so that it is sitting exactly how it will be when you are wearing the vest. Pin the top of your zipper to the top of the front edges of the vest. This helps you to know which side of the zipper is attached to which side of the vest when you go to insert it. (You can see how the top edge of the zipper tape is folded back and sewn down in the photo below.) Open up your zipper completely, leaving the two sides pinned to the vest, and turn your vest inside out again. This next part is really important, it will make sure that the bottom edge of your zipper sits flush with the bottom folded hem of your vest. Take your waistband (it should be loosely folded in half from the zig-zag stitching you did earlier) and line up the seams joining the waistband to the lining and exterior vests so that they sit directly on top of each other. Then, take a pin and place it in the fold at the bottom of the waistband. This marks the very bottom edge of your vest.Take the zipper piece that is pinned to that same side of the vest and with the right side of the zipper facing the right side of the exterior vest, lay the zipper along the front edge of the vest. It is really important to make sure that the bottom of the zipper (with the zipper stop) butts up firmly with the pinned fold mark on the waistband. (Sorry for flipping the photo around here…hope it doesn’t confuse you!)
Line up the long edge of the zipper tape with the front edge of the vest, sandwiching the zipper between the exterior and lining pieces, and pin into place. I find I get a more accurate finish if I pin the bottom of the zipper into place first, then match up the seams at the top of the waistband and pin the zipper into place there next.Then I go to the top (neckline) of the vest and push the top edge of the zipper right up into the join between the exterior and lining pieces and pin into place so that I can be sure that there is no gap between the top of the zipper and the top of the vest.Then I pin the rest of the front edges of the vest to the zipper. Remembering the zipper is sandwiched between the exterior and lining vests. And the right side of the zipper faces the exterior, wrong side of the zipper faces the lining. I like to place a pin in the middle of the front edge first, then fill in the gaps in between. If you are working with a knit fabric for your exterior you might find that your fabric has stretched out a bit during all of the handling and will be a little too long for the zipper. If you pin evenly along the front edge it will eliminate big puckers later on when you are sewing your zipper into place.
Just a note here…if your neckline and waistband seam allowances are more or less than 1/2″ you might have trouble fitting your zipper into the front of your vest without any gaps at the top or bottom. If your zipper is just a little too short, you can either slide it up so that you have a bit of a gap between the bottom of the zipper and bottom of the waistband or re-sew along the neckline and bring the stitching at the front edge of the vest down a little to meet the top edge of the zipper. (Bear in mind that this will mean the finished neckline will be a little lower at the front of your vest.)Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, sew along the pinned front edge of the vest using a 3/8″-1/2″ seam. When you reach the zipper pull, stop sewing and put your needle down. Lift the presser foot, slide the zipper pull past the foot and continue sewing to make sure that you seam line is nice and straight. My knit fabric was trying to pucker as I sewed so I made sure that I sewed slowly and smoothed out the fabric with my fingers as I went. I ended up with a few tiny puckers but they were easy to smooth and push out with my fingers once I was done.Turn your vest right sides out (again!) and you will see one side of your zipper is sewn in! This next step is also really important, I didn’t do it on my first vest and ended up with the seam between my waistband and vest sitting higher on one side than the other. And you don’t want it all wonky-looking!
Rejoin your zipper sides and close your zipper to it sits just a few inches above the seam joining the waistband to the vest. With a chalk pen, pin or some other method of marking draw a line across the zipper tape that sits in line with the seam joining the waistband to the vest. Open up and separate your zipper and turn your vest inside out again.Follow the same instructions as above to find the fold in the bottom of your waistband and mark with a pin. Place the wrong side of your zipper on the right side of your lining with the teeth of the zipper facing into the vest and butt up the bottom of the zipper stop with the pin marked at the bottom fold of the waistband. Pin into place.
Next you will need to match up the seam joining the exterior and waistband to the line marked on the zipper tape. Make sure that the seam line sits directly on top of the marked line and pin into place. Continue pinning the zipper to the front edge of the vest and sew into place as you did with the other side.Turn your vest right side out for the final time and do up your zipper again to make sure everything matches up nicely – the bottom folded edge of the waistband, the seam joining the waistband to exterior and the top of the zipper at the neckline.Look at the inside of your vest and, ta-da! A completely concealed zipper!
To finish your vest, follow Step 4, e-j in your Hero Vest instructions.
While I have been designing the Women’s Hero Vest, I have been collecting images of cool vests and ways to style them. Sometimes I know that I find it had to know what is going to look good when trying to decide upon a fabric for a new sewing project. I’m not actually good at visualising a finished product before it is actually finished, which can sometimes result in a project that I’m not 100% happy with.
Over time, I have learned a few tricks though to make fabric selection easier. If I already have a fabric in mind for a project, I will usually do some searches for that particular fabric on google, pinterest, kollobora, flickr, etc. and see what other people have made out of the fabric already. This always helps me as I can see what the fabric looks like in particular garments and if contrast fabric, trims or other details have been added it can sometimes help to spark an idea or combination of my own.
If I have a pattern in mind and am not sure of what fabric to use though, I sometimes find it helpful to collect images of that particular style of pattern (in this case, a women’s vest) and what kind of fabric look good and how people style them. Even though all of the vests below are store-bought, it can still help you to decide on what fabric you might like your vest to be made from.
I’m particularly loving the outfits below with lots of layering going on…button-up collared shirts, jumpers, chunky necklaces finished off with a vest. An outfit combination that I probably wouldn’t have put together on my own but looks great when I can see a completed outfit compiled like this.
It seems that solid fabrics with a contrast trim, stripes, polka dots and herringbone patterns have caught my eye over the last few weeks, but I have seen a few awesome vests made up using bold prints and patterns and they are also a lot of fun. It all depends on your own personal taste and style and how you want to wear your finished vest – which is the coolest thing about sewing your own clothing – you can take one pattern and make it two or three times, each one looking totally unique to the others!
Hopefully these images give you a bit of inspiration for sewing the Women’s Hero Vest – can’t wait to see what fabric and styling combinations you come up with!
This was my first proper test at sewing the pattern and isn’t 100% perfect, but worked out good enough to wear. Some of the changes I made to the final pattern were to bring the waist curve in a bit so that the vest has more shape to it. And I also lowered the zipper by about 1/2″ as it is sitting a bit high at the neckline on this vest and doesn’t quite reach all the way to the bottom of the waistband. Just a few minor details, but if you are studying this vest in anticipation of making your own, make sure you take those things into account!
For this vest, I used a plastic zipper, and while I like the look of the chunky zipper, after trying a few vests with metal zippers I can definitely say that the weight of the metal zipper makes the front of the vest sit much straighter than the plastic. Although it isn’t a total bother, you can see in a few of the photos that the zipper is a little bit wavy. Totally up to you whether you choose to go with plastic or metal though, they both work perfectly fine and metal are much more expensive than plastic so depends if you want to have a splurge or not.
Once again I have used flannel for the exterior of the vest (using a snugglier fabric like flannel makes the pockets extra warm too) and paired it with a dark grey polar fleece for the lining and light grey ribbing for all of the trim. Robert Kaufman’s range of Mammoth and Shetland flannels are awesome choices for the vest, particularly if you are having trouble choosing a fabric that doesn’t look too childish.
My sister quickly snapped these photos after we finished taking photos for the cover of the pattern…it was pouring with rain so don’t pay too much attention to my wild hair and red, cold nose – I’m glad I had my vest to keep me warm!
I feel like I released the Women’s Hero Vest so quickly after I released my Scout pattern that I haven’t had enough time to give Scout all of it’s glory – so here’s a post dedicated to Scout!
Here is a close-up shot of the waistband attached to the bottom edge of the exterior vest.
Turn your vest right sides out and this is what it looks like from the lining side:
Pin the top of your zipper to the top of the front edges of the vest. This helps you to know which side of the zipper is attached to which side of the vest when you go to insert it. (You can see how the top edge of the zipper tape is folded back and sewn down in the photo below.) Open up your zipper completely, leaving the two sides pinned to the vest, and turn your vest inside out again.
Turn your vest right sides out (again!) and you will see one side of your zipper is sewn in! This next step is also really important, I didn’t do it on my first vest and ended up with the seam between my waistband and vest sitting higher on one side than the other. And you don’t want it all wonky-looking!
Follow the same instructions as above to find the fold in the bottom of your waistband and mark with a pin. 
Look at the inside of your vest and, ta-da! A completely concealed zipper!
